u003cbu003eWith grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of u003ciu003eThe River u003c/iu003eand u003ciu003eThe Whale Warriors u003c/iu003erecounts his remarkable journey of discoveryof surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the oceans beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.u003c/bu003eu003cbru003eu003cbru003eAuthor of the u003ciu003eNew York Timesu003c/iu003e bestselling novel u003ciu003eThe Dog Starsu003c/iu003eu003cbru003e Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literatureu003cbru003e u003cbru003eHaving resolved to master a big-hollow wavethat is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderin a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.u003cbru003e u003cbru003eAs Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, u003ciu003eKooku003c/iu003e is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
